How do You Revive a Dying Rubber Plant: 4 Simple Methods

How do You Revive a Dying Rubber Plant


Rubber plant, a favorite medium-sized house plant that is decorated with thick and large, glossy green leaves. Everything is okay if you can grow the plant with intense care.

There are some factors the happiness of your rubber plant counts on (e.g soil moisture, light, water, and so on). Your plant may be failed to balance all of them. So, you have to find the answers to how to do you revive a dying rubber plant.

It’s natural if this question bugs you. But hey, it shouldn’t be much panic-stricken. Because we are here to show you some hands-on solutions.

Let’s know in detail.

What Will Tell You that Your Rubber Plant is Dying?

Yes, there is a hefty load of reasons for dying your plant. Before you go to revive the plant, you must need to know which problem your plant is facing. So, here are some probable abnormalities your plant may be encountering:

  • Leaves are going to fall off
  • Droopy Leaves
  • Leaves are turning brown and dropping
  • Common diseases

Picked one reason your rubber plant may be struggling for? Okay, let’s know the details.

How Do You Revive the Dying Rubber Plant?

So, here are the answers to HOW(?). We broke the above-mentioned points into chunks and added the solutions. Let’s check out them:

Problem 1: Leaves are Going to Fall off

If you see that the leaves are lower (as they are on this plant), it happens because the plant is using all of its energy for growing new larger leaves. So, these leaves aren’t getting much light for staying hidden under the larger ones.

Another reason can be, as they were the first leaves sprouted, they will be the first to die off as the plant grows. In case, the rest of the plant looks healthy and new growth is happening, no need to fret about a few leaves dying.

But, if the leaves are higher on the plant and the lower leaves are yellowing then your plant is drowning.

Solution: To solve the second problem, cut back on the watering and give the plant a chance to breathe. No, the yellow leaves will not turn green but you can keep it happy moving forward!

Problem 2: Droopy Leaves

Droopy leaves indicate that they are not getting enough sunlight. If this is your indoor plant, it generally happens that the plant gets deprived of sunlight. Moreover, it hugs the chances of being overwatered.

When your plant can’t get enough light, it goes into a hibernation mood. As a result, the plant absorbs water less quickly.

Solution: Move your plant to a different place where it will smile to get enough sunshine.

Problem 3: Leaves are Turning Brown and Dropping

This also is a watering issue. If your plant is facing this, you are getting too long between waterings. In general, if leaves turn brown and crispy, it means the rubber plant isn’t getting enough water.

The thing happening here is the leaves started to dry out and they dropped (when the plant decided that it needs to put all of its energy to save the living leaves). In fact, not getting enough light is another reason for this mishappening.

Solution: Make sure that your plant is getting regular watering so that the soil can be constantly moist.

Problem 4: Common Diseases

Well, there are several diseases your rubber plant may face. Here is a brief:

Anthracnose and Leaf Blight: In this case, affected leaves are unhealthy plus yellowish green. In poorly grown seedlings, more or less circular brown spots up to 5 mm diameter with distinct brown margins.

Solution: Proper drainage of the area planted is a must. Ensure the correct nutrition of seedlings/trees. Use a fungicide spray to the expanding leaves at the rate of 2 g a.i/liter of water at least 4 rounds at weekly intervals.

Tip Blight: Symptom for this disease is brown lesions on young leaves. This is also a fungal issue.

Solution: Use a fungicide to treat this.

Brown Root Rot: Leaves turn yellow and fall and hard dark brown fructification is seen for this disease.

Solution: Eradicate the infected root and use fungistatic chemicals as a treatment.

Leaf Spot: For this, numerous small circular spots scattered on the leaf surface. Infected young leaves look black and wrinkles whereas the older ones necrotic tissues produce short-holes.

Solution: Weekly spraying of Dithane M-45 (6tbsp./16 li of water) on fully expanded leaves will help to treat.

Powdery Mildew: In this case, the fungus appears as white dusty colonies on the leaf surface as well as translucent yellow blotches.

Solution: Fungicide treatment at the plant’s young stage is important. Routine dusting of sulfur at a 5-7 days interval during disease season should help.

So, these are some probable diseases your plant may be suffering from.

How do You Revive a Dying Rubber Plant – FAQs

Question: Is there any special information about watering a rubber plant?

Answer: Yes, there is. When you see the plant is not actively growing (dormant), reduce watering to 1 or 2 times per month.

Question: Do I need to prune my rubber plant?

Answer: They typically don’t need pruning. You can remove any diseased plant/dead stems at any time of the year. Better if you prune the plant during late spring or early summer.

Question: Is curling rubber plant leaves okay? Or indicating an issue?

Answer: It can happen for too little water. You should check the soil moisture. If the soil feels dry, water then.


So, that’s all we kept for you. At the end of this article, you may have a clear idea about all the difficulties your plant is going through, huh? So, you may be no more confused about how do you revive a dying rubber plant.

To grow a healthy rubber plant, you have to provide the best care possible. I mean, proper watering, well-draining soil, proper light, and the right treatment of the diseases. So, be careful from the very beginning to keep the plant happy.

Now, go for the troubleshooting. Good luck!

Best Trellis for Wisteria : Guide for 2020

Best Trellis for Wisteria

“Oh, wistful wild wisteria,

Your lilac blooms delight,

Dangling pendant clustering

Soft pastels kissed by light.”

– Julia Mainwaring

That’s the beauty of Wisteria. One of the greatest artworks of nature. But you know there’s a saying that you reap what you sow. And that’s the case here too. In order to get a nice wisteria blooming, you must do the planting in the right way. And to take things to the next level, you must use the best trellis for wisteria.

But there’s a catch-

It’s super hard to differentiate among trellises. And it’s even harder to understand which trellis will be great for your wisteria.

Here’s the thing-

We’ve analyzed hundreds of products to bring you this list of top trellises for wisteria. And to help you out, even more, we’ve added up a buying guide. Now, let’s stop wasting words and climb right into the topic-

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1. Amagabeli 2 Pack Large Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants


Wisteria plants tend to grow around 25-30 feet. So, it’s important that your trellis meets a standard of 6 feet height in order to cover the plant fully. Moreover, the trellis should be wide enough to wrap around a long plant.

Considering all these, the Amagabeli 2 Pack Large Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants is our best overall trellis. Because it comes with a perfect combo of height and width. Along with that, this arch type trellis offers a sturdy and rustproof body.

Overall, if you want to be tension free about supporting your wisteria tree while keeping some aesthetics, this is the best one.

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  • Has a decent balance between height and width.
  • Is sturdy.
  • Comes in a rust-proof coating.
  • Allows versatile planting.
  • Is easy to install.
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  • Might need extra anchoring.
  • Might appear thinner than the picture.


2. H Potter Garden Lotus Bud Trellis for Climbing Plants

H Potter Garden Lotus Bud Trellis for Climbing Plants


At number 2, we have a heavyweight candidate. The H Potter Garden Lotus Bud Trellis for Climbing Plants is a design superstar with its wonderful iron strands.

So, even if your plant is small, you can keep it out in the garden, and it’ll increase the overall aesthetics of your garden. To add more context to it, we’ve got exclusive info to share with you.

The manufacturer has been designing gardening décor equipment for over 20 years. And now, you get the fruit of all those years of experience.

Besides that, this trellis has got other standard features too. Let’s analyze those with the pros and cons-

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  • Ranks high on aesthetics.
  • Stays stable with the 12-inch ground spikes.
  • Has a durable construction.
  • Keeps a good balance between height and width.
  • Can be used as metal art.
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  • Is really expensive.
  • Isn’t easy to assemble.

3. Achla Designs OBL-01, 61-in Wrought Iron Garden Obelisk Trellis

Achla Designs OBL-01, 61-in Wrought Iron Garden Obelisk Trellis


In at 3, we have the sleek design champion, the Achla Designs OBL-01, 61-in Wrought Iron Garden Obelisk Trellis.

This sleek and minimal obelisk trellis is highly durable with the iron frame. And to keep things our rust, this trellis is coated with graphite. Now, there’s something more here. If you analyze the color palette of wisteria, things get interesting.

The classic gray color goes really well with the wisteria flower color. And these two features make this trellis the best one for small wisteria plants.

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  • Has a beautiful graphite finish.
  • Stands well balanced and stable.
  • Is weather resistant.
  • Has a minimal design.
  • Is easy to assemble.
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  • Can’t handle a full-grown wisteria.
  • Has brittle ring holders.


4. Gray Bunny Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants

Gray Bunny Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants


The good thing about wall trellises is that you can use these as a curtain of privacy. Just install one of these along your wall or in front of your window and a nice view will block unwanted stares.

So, what do we have in the Gray Bunny Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants? Well, this wall trellis has a 6mm thick frame. This iron frame is then coated with black powder to keep the trellis safe from harsh weather.

And with a standard weight to size ratio, this trellis holds its position firmly.

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  • Is rust-resistant.
  • Is lightweight.
  • Has a welded iron frame.
  • Allows multipurpose usage.
  • Is cost-efficient.
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  • Is a bit short.
  • Looks flimsy.


5. Achla Designs FST-01 Spiral Wrought Iron Garden Trellis

Achla Designs FST-01 Spiral Wrought Iron Garden Trellis


Welcome to the most simple yet beautiful trellis of this list. The Achla Designs FST-01 Spiral Wrought Iron Garden Trellis is basically a bent iron rod. But it’s designed in a way to look drop dead gorgeous while supporting your wisteria. Moreover, with the matte black powder finish, it really looks stunning with the wisteria color.

However, the design didn’t eat away its quality. It’s still pretty sturdy. And with all the features, it’s a great trellis to support wisteria. Keep imagining a spiral wisteria as we head onto the pros and cons-

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  • Has a minimalistic design.
  • Is weather resistant.
  • Is super lightweight.
  • Requires no assembly.
  • Gives a nice color contrast.
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  • Is really small in size.
  • Can topple on pots.


6. Amagabeli Large Garden Trellis

Amagabeli Large Garden Trellis


As the name suggests, this is a large trellis. We’ve been through a couple of consecutive small trellises and it’s time to get into a big one.

The Amagabeli Large Garden Trellis offers much more apart from its large size. This rustproof trellis also meets a standard score when it comes to overall looks. And because of the wired welding, it can hold off a decent amount of weight.

Overall, this set of two trellises would be enough to hold your full-grown wisteria plants minus the worries.

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  • Has a large size.
  • Comes in a welded iron frame.
  • Resists rust.
  • Requires zero assembly efforts.
  • Has a good size to weight ratio.
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  • Lacks spikes for anchoring.
  • Lacks a minimal design.


7. Trenton Gifts Weather Resistant Free-Standing Arched Trellis

Trenton Gifts Weather Resistant Free-Standing Arched Trellis


We’re here to the largest trellis of this list. This 7 feet giant can be the perfect trellis at the entrance of your garden. And because of the arch shape, you can wrap a wisteria tree in a number of ways.

Moreover, even with this large size, the trellis is extremely light. So, you won’t have to worry about moving it several times before attaching a plant. And because of the white base color, you can apply gray paint to it.

Overall, the Trenton Gifts Weather Resistant Free-Standing Arched Trellis is great for decorating your garden entrance with a wonderful wisteria tree.

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  • Is highly cost-efficient.
  • Comes in a large size.
  • Stands on its own.
  • Is lightweight.
  • Comes in base white color.
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  • Lacks sturdiness.
  • Is hard to assemble.


8. Tingyuan Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants

Tingyuan Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants


This wall/arch trellis is an overall good package. But this one lacks some type of special feature and that’s why it’s at this position.

But that doesn’t mean that the Tingyuan Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants is a bad product or anything. It’s just our buddy here lacks some magic touch like the others. Regardless of that, if you’re low on budget and don’t want to worry about trellises, then this would be a nice choice.

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  • Is rustproof.
  • Has a strong iron frame.
  • Has in-built spiked legs.
  • Allows a decent plant coverage.
  • Is lightweight.
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  • Has brittle butterfly decals.
  • Shows a decreased height


9. Gardman Tall Black Garden Obelisk

Gardman Tall Black Garden Obelisk


At number 8, we have the tallest trellis of the list. However, even with this height, the Gardman Tall Black Garden Obelisk isn’t the largest of the list.

And even though it meets the industry-standard features, it’s down here because of one tiny detail.

Basically, the design requires someone digging through the soil for 18 inches. So, your trellis installation success rate depends on a few extra factors. Your garden soil condition and your ability to dig.

But it’s a sturdy trellis with a good design. So, if you’ve got the things right, then go for it.

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  • Has a good design.
  • Is sturdy.
  • Has a good height.
  • Resists rust.
  • Can hold onto the strong wind.
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  • Is hard to assemble.
  • Has a high price considering all the struggle.


10. Hosley Set of 2 Iron Wave Pot Trellis

Hosley Set of 2 Iron Wave Pot Trellis


Welcome to the lightest trellis of this list. The Hosley Set of 2 Iron Wave Pot Trellis is the perfect trellis for indoor usage.

If you’re planning to plant wisteria in your balcony, then this would be the best choice. Because it’s got the perfect height and build quality for that.

However, this makes it a bad choice for garden usage. Because the manufacturer couldn’t claim a rustproof feature on this one. And because of that reason, it’s our last recommendation.

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  • Is lightweight.
  • Can be used with other trellises.
  • Gives a modern décor.
  • Is environmentally friendly.
  • Has the perfect height for indoors.
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  • Isn’t rustproof.
  • Can’t cover a full-grown wisteria.


Buying Guide for the Best Trellis for Wisteria

There aren’t many things that we can look into while buying a trellis. Still, we discussed so many features of our top ten items. And we know that this is confusing. So, we’re trying to make things easier for you with this buying guide.

Now, while buying a trellis, you can look for two things. One is the trellis type and the second is the material type. So, let’s explore those-


By style, we’re referring to styles. Nowadays, there are a few types of trellises available in the market. Let’s get to know those-

Arch type

These have rounded tops with latticework foundations. Bearer of Victorian-era aesthetics.

Planter Box Trellises

Imagine your dressing table as a trellis. This one is basically a wooden box along with a frame for vines to cling to. You can use the box as a grow box for planting wisteria and other flower plants.

Fan Trellis

These are the opposite of arched trellises. Because of the flared top, these look like Japanese hand fans. And that’s why these are named like this.

Obelisk Trellises

These three-dimensional pyramid and column-shaped trellises are the epitomai of aesthetics. If you’ve got the time and space, then try out one of these for your wisteria.


Generally, we’ve seen three types of materials used in trellises. Wood, polycarbonate, and metal. However, in the polycarbonate group, you’ll see the domination of vinyl polymers.

Now, all these materials result in different outcomes.

If you’re into aesthetics and if your local weather goes on an average line, you can go for wooden ones. These will age with time and will increase the overall aesthetics of your garden. However, make sure that you’ve got some basic knowhows about woodworking before going for one of these.

The vinyl trellises are perfect for extreme weather. However, these are a bit low scorers on the aesthetic scale. Moreover, these aren’t quite an environment friendly. So, if you’ve got really bad weather in your area and if you don’t want to invest much time in the garden, then go for a vinyl trellis.

Up next we have the metal ones. These are basically on the middle ground. You get the low maintenance benefit. However, finding an aesthetic metal trellis needs some luck. But these too age well with the garden. So, you can give it a try considering the style.

Wrapping Up

That was all about trellises. Now, you can easily pick the best trellis for wisteria. Moreover, now, you can be the local expert on trellises. So, what are you waiting for? Order it up already!

DIY Plant Saucer- A 360 Guide to Build Your Own Plant Saucer

DIY Plant Saucer- A 360 Guide to Build Your Own Plant Saucer


As a home grower, there are a lot of things to look after. Plant containers or saucers are a worth concern. As many of the growers find difficulties with these, we came here to give a hand.

Finding a matching saucer with a plant container is not easy. Moreover, you may find it expensive. Whatever your issue is, do not worry anymore. You can do it yourself on any weekend if you can be instructed properly.

So, here we are, you will find every relevant thing about DIY plant saucer in this article. We also kept a section for why your planter will need a saucer. We summed up the tools and materials you’ll need and the steps you’ll go through.

So, without further ado, let’s dive in!

Why Does Your Planter Need A Saucer?

Well, as many first-time growers may have a question like ‘what are plant saucers for?’ Here’s the answer. You may know how much proper drainage matters, huh? Yes, proper drainage hugs the chances of keeping proper soil moisture.

And saucers under plants are used to catch the excess water that drains from a container planting. Sometimes growers can be able to find matching pots and saucer sets. But the more common scenario is that containers do not come with one (the saucer must be bought separately).

Not only this but adding a plant saucer beneath your container can be useful in increasing the decorative appeal of potted plants, you won’t want to miss this for sure. Am I fanboying much? Okay, let’s move on to the core of the discussion.

So, here is your DIY project on how to build your own plant saucer. Let’s know the details.

What You’ll Need To Make a Plant Saucer?

Well, you can make a plant saucer using a variety of elements. Like, some of them are made of plastic (which will not be much durable) or cake tins/aluminum cookie sheets (which will be durable but rust inside).

So, here we will show you using mainly a hard foam board and construction adhesive. Let’s see what you are going to need:

After purchasing or managing these tools and materials, go through this series of steps.

Step 1: Cut the Foam Board on Pieces

The first thing you need to do is cut the foam hard foam board with a sharp knife. The measurement should be- 15x15cm, height: 4cm (wall thickness 1cm). Now, use the sandpaper to create a smooth finish to the pieces of foam board.

Step 2: Build the Mold

Build a mold upside down. Your plant saucer is the base of your planter, so, work on it carefully. Use a construction adhesive to glue the pieces together. It’s important to use enough glue so that no water can leak out. Okay? You are done with building the mold.

Step 3: Mix the Fiber Concrete

Using fiber concrete for this project will help you to make it as thin as possible. Mix the fiber concrete with water properly. Wait, before pouring it, cover the mold’s top with some oil.

Step 4: Pour the Concrete

Now, it’s time to pour the concrete and vibrate the mold as much as possible. Wait some time and let the mixture dry enough.

Step 5: Remove the Saucer From the Mold

Do it very, very carefully. Remove the saucer from the mold and look keenly as if the mold doesn’t break down. In case you make any mistake, repair it before using it.

Step 6: Make the Mold Waterproof

After removing, make the mold waterproof. Use a good concrete sealer to make it happen. Making a little waterproof test will help to set aside any struggle to fix this later.

To apply the concrete sealer, using a brush will be a good idea. Worth noting,  Do it after 24 hours of using the sealer.

Step 7 (optional): Paint the Saucer

This is optional. You can paint the saucer with acrylic paint. Some of the growers don’t take the decorations seriously. If you are not one of them, you should handle this step. Once you’re done with painting, it will look amazing. But wait a couple of weeks to paint the saucer (it should be dry enough before painting).

Eureka! You’re done with building your own plant saucer.


Don’t forget to wear gloves and a dust mask to keep the chance of a bad experience not in the slightest.

DIY Plant Saucer – FAQs

Question: Can I fill the saucer with rocks?

Answer: You certainly can. Use pretty rocks, marbles or glass and celebrate their union. In fact, it’s easy as well as looks good.

Question: Do I need a saucer if my planter is a Cachepot?

Answer: No, you don’t. Cachepots have excellent drainage.

Question: When can I paint my saucers?

Answer: Well, you need to wait at least for one week. Saucers need to cure/dry properly before you can paint them. Worth noting, prefer wood saints for concrete projects.

Question: What if I reuse tins/aluminum sheets and make a saucer with this?

Answer: Well, you can do it. But as they will rust inside, you have to replace them frequently.


Thank you if you are still with us. Could we be able to make sense of the whole process? We hope the answer is yes, as we left no stone unturned to make you understand.

As it’s a DIY project, you should be very careful at every step, don’t forget to practice ‘safety first’ (must wear gloves and mask). After done with it, take care of the saucer from the beginning, it will be durable.

So, you now completely know everything about DIY plant saucer, such as, why and how you will build one of yours. So, you should not think of it anymore, just go for it.

Good luck!

Best Herbicide for Blackberries – With Buyer’s Guide

Best Herbicide for Blackberries

Blackberries are pretty and tasty. However, they move like an army.

Once they get deployed, they can quickly take over your whole yard. And once they take over, things become super hard to control through pruning.

And in situations like that, herbicides come to the rescue. The best herbicide for blackberries can give your yard some freedom.

However, choosing an herbicide, in this case, is hard. First of all, you must find herbicides for blackberries. And after that, you got to choose the best one among those.

No worries. We’ve got just that for you. Moreover, to make things easier, we’ve brought in a buying guide along with our top choices.

So, let’s stop wasting time and start working towards a fresh start-

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1. BioAdvanced 704655A Brush Killer Plus

BioAdvanced 704655A Brush Killer Plus

When it comes to herbicides, there’s not much innovation to do. At least that’s what we believed for some time. But things have changed nowadays. And the BioAdvanced 704655A Brush Killer Plus is one of the agents of change.

So, what’s so innovative here? Well, this non-selective contact weed killer has brought in some extra features with its efficient killing method.

For starters, the herbicide is water and rainproof once it sets. So, while applying this, you just have to make sure that you get a 4-hour window. After, that you can be tension free as the herbicide will strike a swift blow of death to those blackberries.

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  • Is immune to water after 4 hours.
  • Can kill over 70+ types of bushes.
  • Comes with a comfortable spraying technology.
  • Allows coarse spray.
  • Delivers results within a week.
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  • Attracts pets with the scent.
  • Doesn’t go to the roots.


2. Remedy Ultra Specialty Herbicide Weed Killer & Brush Control

Remedy Ultra Specialty Herbicide Weed Killer & Brush Control

In general, Triclopyr works as a contact weed killer. Which means it only kills the top part of the plant while keeping the roots intact. As a result, sometimes the weeds start growing again. But our herbicide here gets the best of both worlds.

This uses triclopyr but also reaches the roots. And the best part is it acts fast.  So, what else does the Remedy Ultra Specialty Herbicide Weed Killer & Brush Control offer?

Well, this long-lasting flexible weed killer works at a low odor. So, your pets won’t go out of control after applying it.

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  • Kills to the roots.
  • Lasts long.
  • Has low odor.
  • Controls 35+ brush species.
  • Allows diesel mixing.
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  • Restricts access for 12 hours.
  • Has no rain or water protection.


3. Southern Ag 100520254 Crossbow Specialty Herbicide

Southern Ag 100520254 Crossbow Specialty Herbicide

At number 3 we have another non-selective contact weed killer. The Southern Ag 100520254 Crossbow Specialty Herbicide is like a small pepper. It looks small in size but it can perform miracles.

For example, with this herbicide, you can make up to 96 gallons of solution. And every drop of those 96 gallons will work on killing weeds effectively. Moreover, as it’s a contact herbicide, it can deliver results pretty quickly too.

Overall, this one would be a great choice if you want to clear up your large yard.

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  • Kills effectively.
  • Works fast.
  • Can kill several variants of weeds.
  • Can be mixed for a solution.
  • Is easy to use.
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  • Depends on the weather for effectiveness.
  • Can’t keep weeds out for 2 seasons.


4. Ortho GroundClear Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer

Ortho GroundClear Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer

Welcome to our first full-on systematic weed killer. This one kills the weeds to their roots and blocks them from reemerging.

So, what benefits does the Ortho GroundClear Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer offer? Well, it’s really fast. You’ll see visible results of this herbicide within 24 hours.

And while aiming for a fast result, this weed killer enters the plant system within 2 hours. This means after 2 hours, rain won’t be a problem for this weed killer. And with its comfort wand, it really stands out. This battery-powered sprayer allows you to access even the hardest to reach areas.

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  • Kills to the roots.
  • Shows results within 24 hours.
  • Becomes rainproof after 2 hours.
  • Comes with a sprayer.
  • Has a good price to quantity ratio.
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  • Isn’t pet friendly.
  • Can spray to 5 feet highest.


5. Green Gobbler 20% Horticultural Vinegar Weed Killer

Green Gobbler 20% Horticultural Vinegar Weed Killer

Enough with the chemical herbicides. Say hello to the first organic herbicide of the list. The Green Gobbler 20% Horticultural Vinegar Weed Killer starts working instantly after getting in touch with the plant.

Now, don’t confuse it with the regular vinegar. This weed killer is 4 times stronger or more potent than our regular vinegar. So, this herbicide can easily burn down your blackberry plant. And because of its organic quality, it can kill those weeds without harming the environment.

Moreover, with this, you won’t have to worry about your pets or children getting harmed. So, you can give it a go.

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  • Works fast.
  • Is harmless to pets and children.
  • Is environment friendly.
  • Can be applied easily.
  • Comes in a 5-gallon pack.
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  • Smells a lot.
  • Isn’t rainproof.


6. Weed Slayer Organic Herbicide Natural Grass and Weed Control

Weed Slayer Organic Herbicide Natural Grass and Weed Control

It’s surprising to have 2 consecutive natural herbicides here. We were surprised too. But it looks like the Weed Slayer Organic Herbicide Natural Grass and Weed Control is packed with useful features. And with those features, it grips is position firmly.

Although it’s organic, surprisingly it’s a systematic weed killer. So, how does it work? Well, it uses Eugenol. A substance that’s derived from the essential oil of cloves. When you apply it in the weeds, it gets absorbed by the plant. Once inside, the herbicide starts working on killing the weed.

But that’s not everything this herbicide has to offer. So, let’s take a look at the pros and cons to get a deeper understanding-

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  • Kills to the roots.
  • Is harmless to pets and children.
  • Spreads aroma.
  • Is easy to use.
  • Is environment friendly.
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  • Can be washed by rain.
  • Comes in half-gallon pack.


7. Crossbow Herbicide Dow Specialty Herbicide

Crossbow Herbicide Dow Specialty Herbicide

We’re back to the triclopyr based weed killers again. This one is like a go-to herbicide for gardeners. It’s got all the basic features and all. And those have maintained a good industry standard. However, the Crossbow Herbicide Dow Specialty Herbicide lacks a magical touch.

It’s like you can keep this as the standard and look at the others for added or reduced features. For example, in some, you’ll see an included nozzle. And some won’t kill weeds that effectively. And choosing those depends on your preference.

But if you’re someone who just wants a selective contact-based herbicide, then you can go for it. It’s made for one job and that is to kill weeds.

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  • Is strong enough on its own.
  • Kills fast.
  • Works on a number of plants.
  • Requires low usage.
  • Is ineffective on grass.
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  • Is a bit pricey.
  • Isn’t rainproof.


8. Image Brush & Vine Killer Concentrate

Image Brush & Vine Killer Concentrate

We’ve got another systematic weed killer here. The Image Brush & Vine Killer Concentrate gets into the systems of the plant and kills it to the roots. As a result, your weeds can’t grow from the roots.

This one too is packed with standard features. Like it kills blackberries. And it doesn’t stop it’s murdering spree only at blackberries. It kills a number of other weeds with accuracy. Moreover, with one package you can clear up 4000 sq. feet of area. All these features bring this herbicide to this list.

However, due to a low price-quantity ratio, it fails to be at the top. Overall, this one’s absolutely amazing if you’ve got a medium-sized yard.

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  • Kills to the roots.
  • Useful on various types of weeds.
  • Is super easy to use.
  • Allows mixing.
  • Shows results within a day.
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  • Allows replanting after 1 month.
  • Comes in small quantity.


9. Crossbow Herbicide

Crossbow Herbicide

As our last entry here, we’ve got another chemical herbicide. This one also uses triclopyr. So, it’s a contact-based weed killer. However, it’s not harmful to grasses and it’s somewhat selective.

So, what else does the Crossbow Herbicide offer us? Well, it kills a number of weeds along with blackberries. And most importantly, it goes rainproof within 2 hours.

So, you won’t have to keep a keen eye on the weather app while holding the herbicide at hand. Now, let’s look at the pros and cons-

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  • Works fast.
  • Can kill different types of weeds.
  • Keeps grasses unharmed.
  • Can be applied with any sprayer.
  • Is easy to use.
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  • Is a bit expensive.
  • Has no included sprayer.


Best Herbicide for Blackberries – Buying Guide

That was a lot. We’ve gone through 9 different herbicides. And all of them can kill blackberry weeds. But this makes the whole thing confusing. So, we’re here to make things easier.

While choosing an herbicide go alongside these features and you’ll find yourself the perfect match. So, let’s start-

Organic or Chemical?

Vinegar based herbicides are the only organic solutions in this case. However, while choosing chemical ones try to spot two ingredients. We call these Glyphosate and Triclopyr.

Now, the organic herbicide concept might sound better at this point. But if the infestation goes radical, then you must switch over to any of those chemicals.

Pre-emergent or Post-emergent?

This is basically the prevention and solution debate. The pre-emergent one will keep blackberries away from your garden. And the post-emergent one will kill the weeds once they arrive in your garden.

The first one works by hindering germination. The latter one works by killing sprouts.

Both are effective and easy to use. But the final call is yours.

Contact or Systematic?

The contact weed killers start working on contact. And even with this efficiency, it isn’t the top choice for everyone. It’s because this type of herbicide kills only the part above the soil. And if things go south, you’ll see plants growing from the roots again.

Systematic herbicides work slow but are extremely accurate. These are the snipers of herbicides. So, how do they work?

Well, the tree foliage absorbs the herbicide. And this assassin here uses the plant’s nutritional system to start attacking. It prevents the plant to make food from sunlight and water. So, within a few weeks, the plant dies.

The rule of thumb here is to use the contact herbicide annually and the systematic one perennially. However, you’ll find some herbicides have both of the worlds. So, choose accordingly.

Selective or Non-selective?

Here we have a mix of both types. Selective types are basically tailored towards one type of plant. These only kill one type and are pretty much harmless to others. On the other hand, non-selective weed killers are equally harmful to all plants.

Choosing Process

So, when should we choose which one? Well, let’s explore scenario by scenario.

If blackberry sprouts are everywhere, go for a non-selective weed killer. This post-emergent weed killer can be both systematic and contact.

If you see blackberry weeds growing amongst your garden flowers and veggies then things are different.  To protect the existing garden vegetables, apply a selective-contact based herbicide.

Now, if you have small sections in your garden and you don’t want to see weeds growing in your garden, go for a pre-emergent herbicide.

That’s all about choosing.

Parting Words

That was a long journey. We analyzed our top choices and then we went through a detailed buying guide. But we believe the effort was worth it. Because now you can choose your best herbicide for blackberries. Moreover, now you can be the local hero by giving your neighbors some expert advice.

So, move your back and order up that herbicide. Good luck. Happy gardening.

Elephant Ears Turning Yellow- Reasons and Remedy

Elephant Ears Turning Yellow- Reasons and Remedy


Elephant Ear is also known as the Colocasia plant. It has stunning, light-green, heart-shaped leaves. When these leaves start yellowing or turning brown instead of fresh, light-green, it bugs you. Huh?

Not only you but many of the home growers also face this problem. But, the solution is not out of your reach. You have questions, we have answers. 

So, no need to be tensed. We have rounded up everything you need to know about Elephant Ears turning yellow right here.

Let’s dive in!    

Why Are My Elephant Ears Turning Yellow?

Well, it’s not only you that have this question, but the maximum of the home growers do also have. This is why we compiled the reasons here as if you can find what your plant is facing. Let’s know:

  • Water imbalance
  • Low humidity level
  • Improper light
  • Attacked by insects/pests 
  • Planting problems
  • Natural causes

So, these can be the reasons for yellowing your Elephant Ears. Now, let’s move on to the remedy part. 

What Are The Remedies For Turning The Plant Yellow?

We just talked about the causes of turning the plant yellow and now we will break them down. Also, we will show you what are the remedies for the issue. 

Don’t worry, It doesn’t take a lot of guts to save the plant. In fact, we tried to make the steps easiest for you. Let’s check them out:

Problem 1: Water Imbalance

The most common issue of yellowing leaves among Elephant Ears is this one, improper soil-moisture- particularly, over watering. Yes, this plant likes to be kept damp (not wet or saturated). So, you need to be very careful about keeping a regular watering. 

Solution: When you water your Elephant Ears plant, make sure you provide enough water. It will let the liquid flow from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot as well as into the saucer. It’s crucial to discard any excess water in the saucer and also not to let the plant sit in any standing water. 

This plant doesn’t like WET FEET which can cause the roots to rot plus lead to the ultimate death of the plant. Turning the leaves yellow or brown is the first sign that root rot may be ongoing. 

So, the summary is, installing a drainage system or using a raised bed can help avoid over watering. 

Problem 2: Low Humidity Level

Remember one thing, alternating between bone dry and wet soil (from ill-timed waterings) can create stress to your plant which results in yellowing the leaves. Because Elephant Ear is not a drought-tolerant plant. 

Why is low humidity and dry soil bad for your plant? Because these lead the leaves to droop and brown on their edges. In the future, yellowing, browning, and shivering can be occurring. 

Solution: To serve your plant with a proper humidity level, you need to take extra care. Do you know that elephant Ears love to boost in humidity from regular misting, pebble tray, or humidifier? So, try these and see the result yourself! 

Problem 3: Improper Light 

This plant grows best when it’s placed in bright but indirect sunlight. Because they tolerate medium light. If they are exposed to direct sunlight for too long, the foliage will be burnt. 

Solution: You should place the plant somewhere that has partial shade as well as will keep the soil moist for the plant. This indicates 3-6 hours of sun exposure should remain per day. 

Problem 4: Attacked by Pests/Insects

Actually, sap-sucking bugs (e.g Spider mite) can drain the plant of moisture. For this, a stressed or weakened Elephant Ear is susceptible to insect infestations. This problem is quickly expressed by the plant by yellowing leaflets and fronds. Bugs like Scale, Mealybugs, Aphids, or Spider mites can frequently attack your plant in indoor conditions. 

Solution: Primarily, to keep your plant dust-free from the very first time, you should do something. I mean, To save your Elephant Ear from the piercing mouths of the insects from the beginning, spray the plant with warm soapy water (every few weeks). It will prevent the pests that exhaust your plant and accelerate yellowing.   

But, now you are in a condition when an infestation already occurred. What you can do now is to use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or Neem oil. These products will help to kill the pests as well as their eggs.

Problem 5: Planting Problems

Look, if the yellow spots compass the entire leaf plus take over the edge of leaves first, it indicates the root structure is stuck in the pot (doesn’t have enough room to grow). In case, the root structure doesn’t have enough space to grow, the leaves that started yellowing will die and fall off.

Solution: Repot the plant and don’t repeat the planting mistakes. 

Problem 6: Natural Causes

Yes, some yellowing is the result of natural causes. Is your Elephant Ear going through new growth? If the answer is yes, and yellowing leaves are older (particularly, at the bottom of your plant) don’t fret, this yellowing is natural. 

Why does it occur? Because your plant is shedding its old leaves and sending energy to new growth. 


The leaves contain Oxalic acid which is toxic. Wear gloves when handling your plant (mainly if you have sensitive skin).

Elephant Ears Turning Yellow – FAQs

Question: What can cause the Elephant Ear to droop/lay down?

Answer: Droopy water indicates you need to water properly in the plant.

Question: Should I trim off broken/dead leaves?

Answer: Yes, you should.

Question: The older leaves of my plant are turning yellow whereas the newer ones are very light green. What does that mean?

Answer: It could be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Look for the plant foods that contain this nutrient and make sure your plant is well-fed. 

Question: Should I use fertilizer when the leaves are turning yellow?

Answer: No need. They usually work fine without fertilizer and a slow-release fertilizer works best. 


So, we are done. This was in our store for you. We hope that you now have a crystal clear idea about why and how your Elephant Ears turned yellow. As you are aware of the remedies, go and help your plants to bring back into life. 

Good luck! 

10 Best Grafting Knife for Precise Gardening

10 Best Grafting Knife for Precise Gardening


Wouldn’t it be awesome if you get different types of chilies from one plant?

Well, thanks to grafting we can have a taste of this wonder.

But there’s a catch-

If you want wonders, you’ll need the best tools. Even Harry Potter needed a perfect wand for him.

So, it’s important to get the best grafting knife before jumping into your garden. Because a bad one can give you painful hands and in worst cases, awful blisters.

However, with so many options available, it’s super tough to choose a good one.

So, to help you out, we’ve brought in this list of top grafting knives. And as a bonus, we’ve added a buying guide to ease your struggle.

Now, let’s cut right through the details-

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1. PGCOKO Garden Grafting Pruning Knife with Tape for Grafting Budding

PGCOKO Garden Grafting Pruning Knife with Tape for Grafting Budding

Sturdiness, Versatility, Design, Usability you name it and our grafting knife here would be a champion in that category. With its stainless-steel double blades, the PGCOKO Garden Grafting Pruning Knife holds the number 1 position in our list.

With a rosewood finish, this grafting knife gave some extra focus to fit it perfectly in your hands. So, it won’t matter if you’re a lefty or righty, this champ here can deliver you the best experience on an eye soothing budget.

And to take things to the next level, the knife comes with double bevel blades. So, you can cut away or cut towards you with no fuzz.

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  • Is sturdy.
  • Is highly versatile.
  • Has double bevels on both blades.
  • Comes with a rosewood finish.
  • Comes with a tape.

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  • Can’t lock the folded blades.
  • Isn’t extremely sharp.



2. NAYE Grafting Gardening Knife

NAYE Grafting Gardening Knife

This isn’t only a knife. It’s actually a package. Because Naye knows what a gardener might need and it delivers some extra value with a good knife. So, how good is the NAYE Grafting Gardening Knife?

Well, for starters, we have to talk about its handle finishing. The wooden handle gives different color in every different piece. But that’s not all. The double bladed knife folds perfectly into the knife handle when needed.

And to take things to the next level, the knife gives grafting tape and metal plant tags with it. However, the handle design might feel a bit awkward to the left handers and because of this reason, it’s in number 2.

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  • Comes with a hawkbill and a straight blade.
  • Has versatile uses.
  • Is immune to rusts.
  • Comes with sharp blades.
  • Comes with degradable tape and metal labels.
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  • Is hard to use at first.
  • Doesn’t have double bevels.


3. Victorinox Budding & Grafting Knife

Victorinox Budding & Grafting Knife

Wouldn’t it be amazing if you had a swiss knife for grafting? Well, the Victorinox Budding & Grafting Knife delivers just that with some amazing features. And all that made it a top contender in our list of grafting knives.

Unlike our 2 previous knives, this one has a plastic handle. But that didn’t reduce its style in any angle. As we said earlier, it’s got a beautiful swiss knife design.

Now, about the quality. This knife comes with a single bevel blade. And it’s got only one blade too. But that’s pretty sharp. So, you won’t have to worry about usability.

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  • Is lightweight.
  • Comes with 1000 cuts worth of sharpness.
  • Has durable stainless steel blades.
  • Has a simple design.
  • Fits easily in hand.
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  • Is designed for right-handed people.
  • Can’t lock the blade at an open position.


4. Comkit Grafting Knife, Professional Foldable Double Blades Graft Knife

Comkit Grafting Knife, Professional Foldable Double Blades Graft Knife

At number 4 we have an all purpose gardening knife that has a special focus on grafting works. So, what’s so special about the Comkit grafting knife?

Well, for starters, this knife has almost 3 blades. It’s almost 3 because the tip is sharp and it can be used for bark lifting. But overall it’s a decent knife with a decent build quality. The stainless steel +PVC handle makes it sturdy and lightweight both at the same time.

However, it’s not that good looking and it needs cautious storing after use. Now, let’s look at the pros and cons to have a deeper understanding-

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  • Has 2 blades and a sharp tip.
  • Uses stainless steel blades.
  • Allows more control with the large handle.
  • Is budget friendly.
  • Allows versatile usage.
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  • Requires extra care while storing.
  • Isn’t that good looking.


5. Yosoo Garden Grafting Pruning Knife Foldable Seedling Bud

Yosoo Garden Grafting Pruning Knife Foldable Seedling Bud

We’ve reached the halfway mark with the Yosoo Garden Grafting Pruning Knife. Now, this knife might seem like a mere copy of our previous product. But there’s actually more to it.

For example, this knife uses advanced cutting industrial steel instead of normal steel. This one’s actually a better version when it comes to cutting. But the most important difference is in weight. This one weighs just above half ounce. Which means your hands will go through less stress.

The reason for it ranking below our previous entry is because of its usability. The handle pins are not level with the handle surface. These minor details have brought our knife to this position.

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  • Is lightweight.
  • Has 2 blades and a sharp tip.
  • Allows versatile usage.
  • Comes with super sharp blades.
  • Allows better control with a large handle.
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  • Fails to fold one blade smoothly.
  • Bothers the grip with the handle pins.


6. FELCO Grafting & Garden Pruning Knife

FELCO Grafting & Garden Pruning Knife

There’s a huge allegation against the Felco Grafting and Garden Pruning Knife. Many say that this is just a Victorinox knife with a different logo. Well, that’s not true.

The thing is both look the same almost. But these are manufactured by different companies. And some of the features are different too. So, what do we have different in this knife?

Well, the most basic difference is in the handle material. The Felco knife uses Nylon with an alloy lining in its handle. And this might be one of the reasons behind the reduced weight. Moreover, this knife comes with a strong back spring.

However, even with all those good improvements, this knife has a low price-quality ratio. And because of this reason, it’s at number 6.

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  • Is lightweight.
  • Has a simple and lovely design.
  • Is super sturdy.
  • Has a strong back spring.
  • Is available in two colors.
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  • Is made for right-handed use only.
  • Has a low price quality ratio.


7. Linsen-Outdoors Garden knife

Linsen-Outdoors Garden knife

If you really want to buy only one grafting knife then this might be a good option for you. Because this one’s designed for both right and left hand usage.

So, what does the Linsen-Outdoors Garden knife offer? Well, for starters, it gives us 2 stainless steel blades. And with a rosewood finish, this one scored a perfect ten on the aesthetics scorecard.

That’s not all- to take things to the next level, it comes with an awesome blade to handle length ratio. However, because of some cons this one couldn’t make it to the top few. And we’ll discuss those over the cons part.

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  • Has double blades.
  • Allows the same flexibility in both hands.
  • Allows better control with a large handle.
  • Has an aesthetic rosewood finish.
  • Comes with sharp blades.
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  • Has a poor build quality.
  • Shows rough opening and closing.


8. Unique & Unconventional Zen Garden Grafting Knife

Unique & Unconventional Zen Garden Grafting Knife

The name might make you all dubious about the product. But it’s not a bad product. To be more specific, their claim is somewhat right. So, what’s so unique about the Zen Garden Grafting Knife?

Well, it’s unique in its core. It uses a special kind of steel in its blades. To be more specific, it uses the 5CR13MoV Stainless Steel. And it’s special because it’s used in making tactical weapons. So, your blade won’t go dull after a few cuts. Moreover, your blade will be resistant to dents and damages to some degree.

Other than this, our single bladed grafting knife is pretty much similar to other standard knives. However, because of some usage disadvantages, our knife is in this position.

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  • Is designed to work in the cut away method.
  • Is super easy to use.
  • Comes in a simple design.
  • Is extremely strong.
  • Gives strong control.
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  • Comes with a dull blade.
  • Has a steep bevel.


9. Linsen-outdoors Folding Pocket Knife for Grafting

Linsen-outdoors Folding Pocket Knife for Grafting

At number 9 we have the Linsen-outdoors Folding Pocket Knife for Grafting. Now, this knife is like the most average knife of the industry. It’s got all the standard features and all, but it lacks something unique. Till now all our entries have something unique in them. But this one’s a bit void.

So, what does this actually offer? It comes with 2 double beveled blades. And with the ergonomic design it delivers a standard user experience. Let’s look at the pros and cons to have a better understanding-

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  • Comes with double blades.
  • Has an aesthetic and natural wooden finish.
  • Is long lasting.
  • Has a nice handle to blade ratio.
  • Allows both types of cutting methods.
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  • Can’t lock the blades.
  • Lacks finishing in the budding tip.


10. HAINABC Grafting Garden Knife

HAINABC Grafting Garden Knife

It’s been long since we’ve seen a product that sends gifts to the customers. And so after going through several products we have the HAINABC Grafting Garden Knife.

Now, what does this knife offer us? First, let’s discuss the double blades. These super sharp single beveled blades are really awesome for grafting works. Moreover, the special design allows one to cut away from oneself. As a result, it’s pretty safe too.

Up next we have the wooden finish with a good handle for a firm grip. And let’s not forget the beauty and environmental benefits of a wooden handle. However, all these are pretty average compared to the rest of the products here. And with the cons, it found its place in here. However, it’s still a go because it delivers a full grafting package at a low price.

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  • Comes with double blades.
  • Has a natural wooden finish.
  • Allows one to cut away from oneself.
  • Has double bevels.
  • Is super sharp.
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  • Has a rough opening and closing.
  • Might cut hands while opening both blades at once.


Buying Guide for The Best Grafting Knife

Thanks for surviving the stampede of information. We know it was a lot. So, it’s okay to be confused.

Here’s the thing-

To help you choose the best one for you, we’ve brought in this buying guide. Here, we’ll discuss the features with a focus on usability.

The thing is, when it comes to grafting knives, there aren’t many in depth things that you should look into. So, let’s start with the important stuffs one by one-

Blade Number

Grafting knives come in two types. Single bladed and multi bladed. Now, which one is better depends on your use.

In multi bladed ones you’ll get a straight blade and a hooked blade. Both are important in grafting. However, an extra blade means extra weight. Moreover, sometimes the blade doesn’t fully fold into the handle.

And if you’re into grafting a whole garden, then things might get bad for your hand. But the perk is you get versatility.

Handle Diameter

This might seem a little too much at first. But the diameter actually matters. However, the relation between handle diameter and comfort depends on your hand size. However, the thick diameter feels better.

Handle Material

You’ll get all sorts of options here.  However, nylon handles are great for gripping. But wooden ones are great for aesthetics and environment. Ultimately, it’s your choice here.

Blade Lower Edge Starting Point

Take a close look at where the sharp side of the blade starts from. The closer it is to the handle, the better it is.

Final Cut

We’ve gone through a lot. But now you can order up the best grafting knife for you. And you can even suggest your fellow gardeners a good one. So, what are you waiting for? Get on with it already!

How to Harvest Grass Seed in Your Garden?

how to harvest grass seed


Harvesting grass seed is one of the common industrial agriculture practices. Producers harvest seed with specialized equipment. Yes, this is impractical for home growers. Does it mean you can’t harvest your own grass seed?

No, you surely can make it happen. After all, before the invention of special machinery, people used to gather grass seed by hand. So, why can’t you successfully do this? 

Although the process may take some time, it’s easy to do and allows you to use your own grass seed during the next planting season. So, when should you go to harvest your grass seed? And, How to harvest grass seed from your garden? 

Relax, after reading this article, all of your questions will blow away in the blink of an eye. Because we have stored here everything you need to know about the problem.

Okay, enough talking, let’s just know what’s there for you!    

When To Harvest Grass Seed in Your Garden?

You must know when is the exact time to harvest grass seed. But the answer varies from grass to grass. Yes, it depends on from which grass you are harvesting seed. As we’ve compiled the guidelines here, you should no more worry about it. Let’s just look over these: 

  1. Bentgrass (Colonial, Creeping, Velvet): Late July or early August. Seed will separate from the head when you rub in the palm of the hand.
  2. Bluegrass (Canada, Kentucky): July or early August. Heads will be yellow or brown, seed head moisture content 45-50%.
  3. Bromegrass (Meadow, Smooth): Late July or early August. Heads will be brown as well as upper stem turning brown. Seedhead moisture content 50-55%.
  4. Canarygrass (Reed): Mid-late July. Almost ½ of the seeds will be grey or brown. Seedhead moisture content 50-55%.
  5. Fescue (Creeping red): Early August. Seedhead moisture content 35-40%.
  6. Fescue (Meadow, Tall): Early August. Heads will be brown with a slight dye of green (5-15% of the seeds immature). Seedhead moisture content 45-50%.
  7. Orchard Grass: Mid-July to early August. Heads will look light brown (some will look greenish). The stem will turn yellow to brown. Seedhead moisture content 35-40%.
  8. Timothy: Early to mid-August. Heads will be grey with brownish dye and are gold-colored at the base. Seedhead moisture content 45-50%.

How To Harvest Grass Seed in Your Garden? – Step by Step Guide

So, now you are going to know about the process of harvesting grass seed in your garden. 

If you want to contact Seed harvesters, they exist, but they are too large for use in a home lawn. Because most of the models are intended for commercial harvesting. So, for smaller volume harvesting as you are going to do at home, you will have to do the job manually. 

Things You’ll Need

You are going to collect grass seeds from your garden and fortunately, it doesn’t require many things to do. The key thing you’ll need is:

Well, it’s probably at your elbow, if not, purchase now and get ready for the steps you’ll go through. 

5 Steps of Harvesting Grass Seed in Your Garden

Once you’re done purchasing the things, let’s look at the step by step procedure:

Step 0: Pre-Harvesting Consideration

Check and fix which area of grass you want to harvest seeds and allow the area to grow without cutting it for 20-30 days. It will let the tall stalks grow and develop seed heads within that time. 

Step 1: Check The Seed Heads 

Here you need to check the seed heads to be confirmed if they are ready to be harvested or not. How will you be confirmed? Easy, pull a stalk, and hit the seed head lightly against your palm.

If it releases seeds, you need to harvest immediately. If it does not, try again with a harder hit and harvest within a few days if it releases then.  

Step 2: Hold a Seed Stalk

Now, hold a seed stalk with one hand. Gently pinch the stalk just under the seedhead with your other hand (holding it between your thumb and forefinger). 

Step 3: Let The Seeds Release

Keep slight pressure between your fingers as well as slide up your hand. It will allow the seedheads to slide between your thumb and forefinger. The pressure will release the seeds. After that, collect them on top of your fingers and dump them into a plastic bag or any other container. 

Step 4: Move On To The Next Stalk

Now, move on to the next stalk, grasp it, and harvest the seeds with your fingers. continue harvesting the seeds from the heads until you have harvested enough grass seed to suit your purpose. 

Step 5: Mow The Grass

When you’re done with harvesting seeds, mow the grass. Cut off no more than ⅓ of its height in the first mowing. Try to mow again every few days as needed. Drop the blade height each time until the grass returns to its normal height. 

Lovely! You’re done. If you can properly follow the steps, you can perfectly harvest grass seeds from your garden. 

Now what? Yes, you have to store the seeds in a perfect way, at a perfect place. We have a tip for you!


After you harvest the grass seeds, keep them in a cool, dry place until you are ready to sow them. Remember, high temperature and excess moisture can cause seed failure and promote mold growth. 

Harvest Grass Seed in Your Garden – FAQs

Question: What does rainfall during the harvest season?

Answer: Light rainfall isn’t a problem but heavy rainfall is. It will take more time to dry down to reach perfect seed moisture.

Question: What is the perfect moisture to store grass seed?

Answer: Grass seed can be stored safely at 8-12% moisture, depending on the species.


Still, tensed? Well, we hope you are not. Grass seed harvesting is not a complicated task. You just need to know the answers of When and How. As we discussed it all, you should be in relief now!

So, you now know how to harvest grass seed, go for it without overthinking. You can do it, good luck!   

8 Best Tool for Cutting Ivy in Your Garden

Tool for Cutting Ivy

Ivy grows fast.

And this is where all the problem starts. Yeah, we’re talking about the ivy plant. In the first few days it looks pretty and all. But things go south pretty soon. 

And at one point you end up losing the balance between regular pruning and ivy growth. And at that point, you can either kill the plant or you can start using a power tool for the trimming. 

But there’s a catch-

For this task, it’s important to have the best tool for cutting ivy. And it’s super tough to find one. Because the market’s swarming with tools with different features and all. 

But no worries. We’re here with our list of tools. The best part here is that we haven’t stuck to only one type of trimmer or cutter. So, you’ll get the best guidance from here. Now, let’s get going-

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1. Greenworks 8.5′ 40V Cordless Pole Saw

Greenworks 8.5' 40V Cordless Pole Saw

Pole saws are made for cutting those hard to reach branches. Which means, this is the perfect thing for cutting down those over the fence ivy plants. If you just want to trim those short, the pole saw is the perfect tool for you. 

So, what does the Greenworks 8.5′ 40V Cordless Pole Saw offer us? In short, it delivers a great cutting experience. 

To be more specific, this cordless pole saw comes with a half-inch gauge and 3/8 inches pitch. And this auto-lubing pole saw really stands out with its chain tensioning knob. You can easily fix or tune-up your loose chain by using that knob. 

And in its runtime of 20 minutes, this tool can trim up that lurking ivy plant of yours. Let’s look at the pros and cons to have a better understanding-

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  • Is easy to assemble and disassemble.
  • Has a well-balanced structure.
  • Delivers a good runtime.
  • Allows easy pruning with the cutting bar angle.
  • Is cordless.
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  • Is not the lightest electrical pole saw.
  • Doesn’t have a telescopic handle.


2. WORX WG309 8 Amp 10″ 2-in-1 Electric Pole Saw & Chainsaw

WORX WG309 8 Amp 10" 2-in-1 Electric Pole Saw & Chainsaw

Now, if you’ve got a knack for power while favoring electric tools, then this should be your spot. This beast can use a 8 amp motor. And to be fair that’s pretty overwhelming in front of ivy plants. 

So, what else do we have in the WORX WG309 8 Amp 10″ 2-in-1 Electric Pole Saw & Chainsaw? 

For starters, it’s got a patented chainsaw adjustability feature. So, if you feel like going through high altitude branches, it can through those like butter. Speaking of height, it’s got a reach of 10 feet. So, if you’re somewhere around 6 feet, this will give you access to a height of 16 feet. 

Moreover, just like our previous entry, this one’s also equipped with an auto oiling system. And the level indicator will let you know when it needs some lube and when it’s enough. Overall, this corded pole saw would be a great choice if you’re into heightened cuttings.

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  • Has a strong build quality.
  • Uses a patented chain adjustment system.
  • Is lightweight.
  • Allows extra comfort with a rotatable handle.
  • Is low maintenance.
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  • Has some oil leaking issue.
  • Blocks blade view at longer working distances.


3. Sun Joe SWJ800E 8-Inch 6.5-Amp Telescoping Electric Pole Chain Saw

Sun Joe SWJ800E 8-Inch 6.5-Amp Telescoping Electric Pole Chain Saw

Out here we have the lightest pole saw of the list. Moreover, this one outperforms others with a reach of 15 feet. But that’s not everything from the Sun Joe SWJ800E 8-Inch 6.5-Amp Telescoping Electric Pole Chain Saw. 

This pole saw allows easy height adjustment on its telescopic handle. The twist and lock system is super easy to use and even beginners can use it. And just like the other pole saws, this one too has an auto lubing feature. Lastly, this one really cares about user safety and has added a number of features to that. 

Overall, all these features have covered up its 6.5-amp motor and other deficits of this pole saw.

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  • Has the longest pole.
  • Is the lightest.
  • Happens to be corrosion resistant.
  • Has an auto lubing system.
  • Is budget-friendly.
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  • It is a bit underpowered.
  • Needs trial and error on the trigger lock.


4. WORX WG261.9 20V Power Share 22-Inch Cordless Hedge Trimmer

WORX WG261.9 20V Power Share 22-Inch Cordless Hedge Trimmer

With the WORX WG261.9 20V Power Share 22-Inch Cordless Hedge Trimmer, we start off our hedge trimmer journey. 

Ivy plants can grow like a bush sometimes. And for trimming all around your garden, this would be a great collection. Why? Because it delivers awesome and versatile features in an affordable package. So, with this, you can not only trim the ivy plants but also all sorts of bushes in your garden. 

Now, what does it offer? Well, its dual action ¾ inch gapped blades deliver low vibration while cutting. And with the D shaped handle, you can easily maneuver this lightweight trimmer through your garden. 

Overall, if you believe you need easy movement and trimming experience, then this is your spot. 

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  • Has the perfect length for ivy bushes.
  • Has an ergonomic design.
  • Is lightweight.
  • Trims faster with the dual-action blade.
  • Absorbs vibration.
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  • Doesn’t have a battery indicator.
  • It can last around 15 minutes in 1 charge.


5. BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX Cordless Hedge Trimmer

BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX Cordless Hedge Trimmer

This hedge trimmer has almost all the features of our previous entry. To be more specific, this one too has dual-action blade, ergonomic design, ¾ inch blade gap. However, the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX Cordless Hedge Trimmer has some differences too. 

The main difference is the weight. It weighs 36% more than our previous entry. And the other difference is in an added feature. The Powercut feature allows the trimmer to trim through jam load of vines and branches. 

So, if you trust the name Black+Decker, then you can try this out with your eyes closed.

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  • Has a Powercut feature for extra power trimming.
  • Allows easy movement with higher control.
  • It can absorb vibrations to a certain point.
  • Trims around 3000 sq. ft. in one go.
  • Is a super-strong premium product.
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  • Weighs almost 8.5 pounds.
  • Requires minor assembly.


6. Ukoke U01HT Cordless Electric Power Hedge Trimmer

Ukoke U01HT Cordless Electric Power Hedge Trimmer

This trimmer is like the average kid in school. It has all the standard features but nothing truly stands out. Hence the price is at a standard point too. 

Now, there is something that the Ukoke U01HT Cordless Electric Power Hedge Trimmer offers differently. That is a run-time of 30 minutes. And along with that, it’s got a safety feature like a safe dual start protection switch. Other than these all the features are pretty much known here. So, let’s move on to the pros and cons-

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  • Has dual-action blades.
  • Is lightweight.
  • Has a dual start safety feature.
  • Runs for 30 minutes straight.
  • Absorbs vibration.
[/wpsm_pros][/wpsm_column][wpsm_column size=”one-half” position=”last”][wpsm_cons title=”CONS:”]
  • Struggles with thick branches.
  • Doesn’t have a battery indicator.


7. TrimmerPlus BC720 Brushcutter with J-Handle

TrimmerPlus BC720 Brushcutter with J-Handle

Now, if you’re in a mood for cutting off those ivy plants for good, then going with a brush cutter would be wise. With these, you can just walk around the plants and you’ll see those crumbling down to your feet. 

So, what do we have in this TrimmerPlus BC720 Brushcutter with J-Handle? 

Well, in short, it cuts. But to be more specific, it’s a blade attachment and it can sit on a number of trimmers. The steel blades are super strong and are designed to work with 4 tips. And with the reversible technique, it can easily slice through heavy bushes. 

So, if you’re thinking about trimming your lawn grass and other weeds without bending your back, this one’s a treasure. 

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  • Allows easy trimming with the straight shaft design.
  • Gives better control with the J bar and shoulder strap.
  • It is easy to assemble.
  • Has strong 4 tip steel blades.
  • Slices through heavy bushes with the reversible blades.
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  • Can’t fly away from the debris.
  • Doesn’t give blade sharpening instructions.


8. Makita 4-Stroke Brush Cutter – 25.4 cc.

Makita 4-Stroke Brush Cutter - 25.4 cc.

Out here we have the first non-electrical tool. Which means this has absolute raw power. However, that’s not the only feature of this brush cutter. To be fair, it can do a lot more cutting and trim apart from tackling the ivy plant. 

Let’s take a deeper look at the Makita 4-Stroke Brush Cutter – 25.4 cc. over the pros and cons-

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  • Works at any angle with the multi-position lubrication system.
  • Starts fast.
  • Allows easy-access oil level view.
  • Comes with an easily accessible spark plug.
  • Creates less vibration.
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  • Is expensive.
  • Has a dull stock blade.


Best Tool for Cutting Ivy in Your Garden – Buying Guide

You’ve seen 3 types of tools on our list and all of those are super-efficient in trimming ivy. However, it’s easy to get confused with the list. Like all of those are great products and all of those will give a great cutting experience. But at the end of the day, you have to choose one. 

So, to ease your pain, we’ve brought in this buying guide. Here we’ll explore what to look for in each of those types.

Corded or Cordless

This is the most popular debate in the world of electrical equipment. As we have both types in here you might feel a bit confused. And that’s fair, to be honest. Both types have their pros and cons. But if you’re planning to work on a large yard, it’s better to get a corded one. And for the cordless ones, look at the charging time. 


When it comes to trimming or cutting there’s one common point that is important. And that is reach. By reach, we mean to what distance you can cut your ivy plants. Sometimes, Ivy plants can reach to the top of your fence or tree. And having a longer reach can help in those moments.


This is an absolutely crucial factor in our case. All the tools in here must be carried by hands. And if you’ve got a big garden or yard, then a heavy machine will cause you a lot of pain. So, try to aim for lightweight machines.

Blade and Cutting Head

You have to look at the blades of the pole saw and the hedge trimmers while buying. For the pole saw, try to figure out the frequency of chain tuning. However, on the hedge trimmer, you have to look a bit deeper. 

Check if the blades are single-sided or double-sided. Also, check how far apart the blades are. The standard gap between the blades is considered as 1 inch. However, you can go down to 0.37 inches if you feel like out of options. And try to land onto a single-sided blade. These are safer when it comes to moving around with the hedge trimmer. 

Next, we have the cutting head. While selecting brush cutters it’s important to know the size of the cutting head. The trick here is simple. The more area your cutting head can cover at one time, the more efficient your work will be. 

Budget, Safety, and Maintenance

If you want, then you can even get gold plated trimmers. But we believe that won’t be necessary for ivy trimming. So, spend it according to your pocket. Stick on to the mid-range. But don’t go over to the $10 ones. Because there’s no guarantee whether those can survive a cut or not. 

On the safety side, look for features like low noise, low vibration, extra grip etc. Moreover, check if there are any complaints about the cord and blade structure. Because if these two parts see some type of damage, then you’re in for some deep problems. 

Lastly, we have maintenance. Here we have two things to be exact. First the maintenance itself and secondly the warranty. Check through the reviews on how frequently these chains need tuning. And see if there’s a warranty. If so, then check how that works. Recently, some of the companies offer hassle-free warranty claims. So, try to lean on to one of those. 

End Note

There’s no exact best tool for cutting ivy. Ultimately it all depends on what your future plan is with this tool. Just follow the buying guide no matter what type of tool you choose. Good luck. Happy trimming.

How do you revive a dying ponytail palm?- The Complete Guide

How do you revive a dying ponytail palm


One fine morning, you stepped into your beloved garden and raised your eyebrows seeing your Ponytail palm is dying. 9 out of 10 gardeners will have this question popped up in their mind- ‘How do you revive a dying Ponytail palm?’.

And we guess, you’re within the usual ones. 

To be honest, bringing the plant’s life back will be kind of painstaking. Though you don’t need a whole day to fix it, you have to keep a fair amount of time in your hand. 

Whatever, we tried to make your path as simple as it can be and brought here exactly what you need to know. 

Without beating around the bush, let’s just get into it!  

Why Is Your Ponytail Palm Dying?

This is the very first question you may ask yourself after seeing your plant dying. Yes, you need to know the answers to WHY before delving into the problem. So, Look at the reasons behind the difficulties a ponytail palm can face and be sure about what your plant is facing.  

A ponytail palm mainly faces difficulties due to Overwatering/Underwatering. 

But this is not the end. There are some more reasons why your ponytail palm will seek attention showing some illnesses. Have a look at them: 

  • Low-quality fertilizer
  • Low-quality soil
  • Fertilizer is too close to the roots
  • Planting palm trees at the wrong depth
  • Not enough or too much sunlight 

What Will Tell You That Your Palm Tree Is Dying?

Well, it’s crucial to know the symptoms which will tell you that your plant isn’t feeling well. From this article, you’ll get comprehensive information about the causes, symptoms, and solutions to your plant’s unusual behavior. 

There are 4 most common cases where a ponytail palm is going to die. These are:

  • Ponytail Palm root and stem rot
  • Ponytail Palm with droopy leaves
  • Ponytail Palm leaves turning brown and crispy
  • Ponytail Palm leaves turning yellow and dropping 

How To Bring Your Dying Ponytail Palm Back To Life?

As your beloved palm tree is going to lose its life, it’s normal to feel twitchy. But, as you are in the right place, you’ll find salvation here. 

So, no need to freak out. We will walk you through the easy ways to fight with the 4 above-mentioned problems. Let’s get started! 

Ponytail Palm Root and Stem Rot

This case is usually indicative of overwatering. You may know that Ponytail palm is a desert plant that thrives in well-drained soil. In case the plant has to wet through sodden soil or excessive moisture, it will show the signs of root and stem rot.

What Are The Signs of Root and Stem Rot?

A ponytail palm with root and stem rot will show some specific signs:

  • Squishy or soft caudex 
  • Slowed growth
  • Wilted or yellow leaves 
  • Discolored and mushy roots 

How To Solve This Problem?

By the time the above-mentioned signs appear, unfortunately, your plant has already been decaying for quite some days. It’s near to impossible to redeem your plant unless the rot is caught in time. But if you manage to catch it on time, withholding water and ensuring the right soil drainage will be enough to revive your plant. 

If instead, the rot is advanced, here’s what you have to do:

  1. Remove the plant from the pot and remove the affected parts of your plant using a clean and sharp knife.
  2. Repot the plant in a new container. Make sure the new pot is well-draining and with a hole at the bottom (preferably made of clay).

Ponytail Palm With Droopy Leaves 

This is perfectly showing that your plant is suffering from dehydration. Though it is a desert plant, it can’t live without water for months. A dehydrated Ponytail Palm will primarily show these two symptoms: 

  • Droopy leaves going brown and starting curl 
  • The wrinkled trunk that goes limp

How To Solve This Problem?

Here’s how you will revive your droopy Ponytail palm:

  1. Place the potted Ponytail palm in a sink. Now, fill it with cold water to a 3-4”(7.6-10.2cm) level.
  2. Leave your plant in the water for 45 minutes and let the soil soak through the hole (at the bottom of the pot). You can be sure that the caudex has absorbed a good amount of moisture when at least 3” of the soil will be soaked.
  3. Once all the soil is moist, remove the pot from the sink and leave the plant inside for a while. It will let it drain any standing water.
  4. Finally, replace your plant on the saucer and back to its usual spot.  

Ponytail Palm Leaves Turning Brown and Crispy

This also happens for dehydration. So, you still need to revive the plant by following the previous-explained steps of Droopy Ponytail palm. If most, not all, the leaves are brown and crispy, remove them with clean and sharp scissors. 

Ponytail Palm Leaves Turning Yellow and Dropping

There are two reasons why the leaves are turning yellow:

  • Overwatering
  • Over application of fertilizer 

How To Solve this Problem?

The first problem can be solved with proper drainage of your plant. No, the yellow part will not turn green and will need to be removed. But, yellowing will be stopped with the proper drainage for the leaves that are still healthy and green. 

To solve the second problem, you need to repot the plant in new, well-drained soil and add standard fertilizer in the right portion.  

How do you revive a dying ponytail palm? – FAQs

Question: What are the signs of over-watering a Ponytail palm?

Answer: Excess amount of leaves drop from the tree, roots appear brown instead of white, current blossoms quickly drop, and so on. 

Question: My 20 years old outside 16’ is losing its new growth and looks like it’s almost dead. Can I save its life?

Answer: Yes, you can certainly bring them back into life by following the provided steps, the time isn’t over.

Question: Is there anything I should keep in mind when using fertilizer?

Answer: Yes, always keep fertilizer at least 2 ft away from roots (or the fertilizer can burn them).


So, this is what we stored for you. Hopefully, at the end of our discussion, ‘How do you revive a dying ponytail palm?’ isn’t a tough question for you. 

The last words for you, don’t feel lazy to look after your plants. No, you don’t need to grow extra eyes in the back of your head. But, at least don’t put the tasks off for the next weekend. 

Whatever, you now know how to save your dying plant’s life. Don’t delay, go for it!